Thursday, January 28, 2010

Niçoise salad


A debate lasting over a century based solely around a salad may seem absurd to some, however the French could never be accused of not being passionate about their food. Named after Nice, the city of its origin, the salad’s ingredients have never been agreed on. Ingredients used in the salad include: tuna (canned and fresh), olives, anchovies, potatoes, lettuce, green beans, peppers, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, boiled egg, capers, cucumber, basil, shallots, garlic, oil, vinegar and dijon mustard. Almost every one of these ingredients has been argued by purists not to be true to the original dish aside from beans and olives.

Although not adhering to any strict guidelines I will show you how I like to make a salad Niçoise. No doubt if I had a French purist looking over my should while preparing, they would undoubtedly roll their eyes and shake their heads profusely. To infuriate them more this is adapted from a Gordon Ramsey recipe.

Ingredients (serves 4)

Salad
450g potatoes either new potatoes (You could also use kipfler)
300g green beans (preferably haricot vert, which are a French green bean)
24 cherry tomatoes, halved
24 black olives (do not skimp on cheap olives, they need to be soft and full of flavour)
2 tbsp capers
16 anchovies (I would also aim for a quality anchovy as this flavour is key to the dish)
2 banana shallots finely sliced
2 baby gem lettuce or perhaps cos, separated into leaves (Do not use fancy lettuce you need the cool crunch of these varieties)
4 tuna loin steaks, about 100g each (it is more classic to use a tinned tuna so feel free to use either)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
4 large eggs
Few basil leaves
Salt and Pepper

Vinaigrette
1 tbsp sherry vinegar (or you can substitute red wine vinegar)
40ml extra virgin olive oil
40ml olive oil
1 tbsp groundnut oil (peanut oil is also fine as it has little taste)
Juice of ½ a small lemon

Preparation:
1. Boil the potatoes for 10-12 minutes or until tender. Drain well then halve.

2. Trim the beans, then cook in boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and refresh in iced water. Drain well once more and pat dry with paper towel or a clean tea towel. It is important not to overcook the beans or skip the refreshing step, as they need to maintain a crisp texture. Classically the beans would have been served uncooked however I prefer a light blanch.

3. Mix the potatoes and beans with the tomatoes, olives, capers, anchovies and shallots.

4. Whisk the ingredients for the vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. Toss the tomatoes, olives, anchovies and capers in some of the vinaigrette.

5. Place the eggs in to a pan of boiling water and cook for 7 minutes (for a well set white and soft yolk). Plunge the eggs into iced cold water to prevent them from cooking further. Once cooled, roll the egg on the work surface, gently applying pressure so the shell begins to crack, then peel off the shell.

6. Place 3 of the larger lettuce leaves on each serving plate then divide the salad between them.

7. Heat a large non-stick frying pan until it is hot when you place your hand over it. Add 1 tbsp of the oil then lay in the tuna steaks. Cook for 1-2 minutes on each side; you will be able to see how they are cooking as the colour rises up the sides. You are aiming for a seared outside but still a decent amount of colour in the centre. Remember that fish continues to cook off the heat so remove just before you think they are ready. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar. Season and lift out of the pan. Cut each steak into thin slices and place onto the salad.

8. Cut the eggs in half to reveal the soft yolk and place the on top of the tuna. Be careful not to lose all that delicious yolk when you slice them open. Scatter with basil leaves then serve.

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